Power-endurance and Mitochondrial density

Power-endurance is the term climbers use when they are referring to doing sustained powerful moves throughout a route. Developing this is an essential muscular adaptation for climbers wishing to exceed their current level and to be well rounded. To understand what adaption is actually taking place here, we need to look into cellular chemistry and exercise physiology. Let's start with the mitochondria.

Mitochondria are the little powerhouses that produce ATP (the basic energy currency of muscle) through the process of oxidation. But before energy get's to this aerobic (with oxygen) step of metabolism it must first start as glycogen stored in the muscle. Glycogen in cleaved from the cell through a process called glycogenolysis during heavy exercise. It is then broken down into glucose, where it enters the cytosol, or liquid portion, of the cell, and experiences several anaerobic (without oxygen) chemical reaction to be broken down into ATP and pyruvate. Pyruvate is then transferred from the cytosol to the mitochondria, where it is further broken down to ATP. During strenuous exercise, the anaerobic reactions cycle faster and produces more pyruvate than can be used by the mitochondria. This leads to a build-up that is transferred into the blood stream as lactic acid. During this phase, your muscles feel a burning sensation and quickly become fatigued.

So, the issue we face at this point is clear; the cytosol is producing more pyruvate than the mitochondria can handle, causing byproducts of fatigue to quickly accumulate, which results in termination of the muscular contraction.

 I layman's terms, you fall off the wall!

Given this information, the logical necessary adaption to continue energy production and prevent muscular failure is to increase the capacity and density of mitochondria within your muscle fibers. Sounds simple, right? Well we'll see. . .

Okay, so next, you need to produce power! Power is force x acceleration. How do muscles increase in their ability to produce power? Well, let's understand physiologically how power is produced. In essence, it is the recruiting of as many muscle fibers as possible in sync to cause the greatest force over the shortest period of time. The application to climbing is when one propels himself with great speed in order to utilize momentum when moving between two holds spread far apart.

As with all adaptions, powerful climbing in and of itself, will produce more power. However, in order to create an adaptation of any kind in your muscles, the stimulus must be provided to momentary muscular failure in order to produce optimal results. If you reach failure on a climb, and it is not in the pulling muscles of your body doing powerful movements (but rather a failure in technique, pump or core tension) then little in the way of increased power will result. If you specifically want to develop power in your pulling muscles and you want to do it in minimal time, you need to train with weights to pure muscular failure.

So again, power-endurance is the ability to sustain powerful movements throughout a sport route. If this is what we are after, then it is logical (albeit to my knowledge, theoretical) that we develop power in a manner that causes an increase in mitochondrial density. If the muscle fibers required to produce powerful movement (mostly FG or type 2 fibers) are to continue to function over an extended period of time, then an increase in mitochondria is necessitated to metabolize all available energy and endure. My theory is not yet complete, but I have two articles that give a good place to start. Please read them and give me your thoughts. Increasing mitochondrial density and Negative accentuated power

Wet. cold. bleeding. Why is this still fun. . . ?

Yesterday I went climbing up American Fork Canyon about thirty minutes from my home in Utah. I feel blessed to have such an amazing crag so close to my home. The north face is still snowy and a warm jacket was necessary while not climbing, but over-all weather was decent. We went to the Hard Rock area which was mostly dry, but all the upper-end routes were still seeping and somewhat wet. Initially the rock temps were low enough, especially in shaded areas, that your fingers became numb quickly and once you stop, you get screaming barfies. I didn't like the warm-up routes as they were so frequently climbed that many of the holds and especially foot holds, are polished and I almost fell off a 10a twice due to my foot popping.

Despite the moist dripping conditions, I couldn't help getting on teeanova 12a to try it out. It's a pumpy, steep, long route with big pockets, a few big moves and 2 nice rests. The most difficult moves are definitely at the bottom, with the first bolt being high about the ground, so stick clipping is essential. Otherwise you're looking at ankle breaking falls or butt-rocketing to the ground due to some high foot placements. This section was especially difficult due to it having the most water, especially on foot placements. I had to campus a few of the moves right before the first bolt due to this. My first attempt, I made it up to the first big pocket, but fell due to a piece breaking, which similtaneous tore a flapper. The next time my fingers slipped off a sharp crimp because I hadn't wiped and chalked properly after holding a wet starting hold.

The third time, I did it, and the pumpiness starts from there. I spent my time working the moves and discerning the bad holds from the good. The route has three steep sections with 2 slabby rests. Cool moves, cool holds, pumpt and crazy. I'm excited to come back and send it. Hopefully under better conditions.

Stronger than Ever (But also fatter)

This past week, for spring break my fiance and I went to the Green Valley Gap near St. George Utah. A fantastic climbing spot with short, bouldery routes. I've been struggling to break through this plateau I've experienced the past couple of years. I get to a point where I climb 12a, and then something interferes with progress, i.e. working 100+ hours/week doing Wildland Fire, tendon injury, etc.

This year, I saw a sweet 12c called Stick To Your Guns down at GVG and thought I'd hop on it despite not having even done a 12a yet this season. Strangely enough I have blown threw my plateau and I redpointed it on my 3rd serious attempt!! I looked at other 12a's and b's around the area and saw that they were definitely easier and figured I need to not hit anything lower than 12a.

The next day, I flashed a 11d!! Crazy weekend, but I think I'm starting to hit my stride (despite a nagging injury in the 2nd knuckle of my right pinky) and make some serious progress. I owe my ability to do those things to my recent off-season training programs.

Here's the second thing that I've noticed. I seem to make some of my best gains in strength upon putting on some extra body fat. Strange. I've noticed recently that I have some extra stomach fat but also that I'm bigger and stronger. This could be, as many bodybuilders theorize, the "bulking phase" where an increase in bodyfat can actually accelerate muscle gain. I'm typically around 4-6 percent bodyfat, but suddenly I'm somewhere near 9 percent.

Stronger!! but. . . . fatter . . . .