Wet. cold. bleeding. Why is this still fun. . . ?

Yesterday I went climbing up American Fork Canyon about thirty minutes from my home in Utah. I feel blessed to have such an amazing crag so close to my home. The north face is still snowy and a warm jacket was necessary while not climbing, but over-all weather was decent. We went to the Hard Rock area which was mostly dry, but all the upper-end routes were still seeping and somewhat wet. Initially the rock temps were low enough, especially in shaded areas, that your fingers became numb quickly and once you stop, you get screaming barfies. I didn't like the warm-up routes as they were so frequently climbed that many of the holds and especially foot holds, are polished and I almost fell off a 10a twice due to my foot popping.

Despite the moist dripping conditions, I couldn't help getting on teeanova 12a to try it out. It's a pumpy, steep, long route with big pockets, a few big moves and 2 nice rests. The most difficult moves are definitely at the bottom, with the first bolt being high about the ground, so stick clipping is essential. Otherwise you're looking at ankle breaking falls or butt-rocketing to the ground due to some high foot placements. This section was especially difficult due to it having the most water, especially on foot placements. I had to campus a few of the moves right before the first bolt due to this. My first attempt, I made it up to the first big pocket, but fell due to a piece breaking, which similtaneous tore a flapper. The next time my fingers slipped off a sharp crimp because I hadn't wiped and chalked properly after holding a wet starting hold.

The third time, I did it, and the pumpiness starts from there. I spent my time working the moves and discerning the bad holds from the good. The route has three steep sections with 2 slabby rests. Cool moves, cool holds, pumpt and crazy. I'm excited to come back and send it. Hopefully under better conditions.

Stronger than Ever (But also fatter)

This past week, for spring break my fiance and I went to the Green Valley Gap near St. George Utah. A fantastic climbing spot with short, bouldery routes. I've been struggling to break through this plateau I've experienced the past couple of years. I get to a point where I climb 12a, and then something interferes with progress, i.e. working 100+ hours/week doing Wildland Fire, tendon injury, etc.

This year, I saw a sweet 12c called Stick To Your Guns down at GVG and thought I'd hop on it despite not having even done a 12a yet this season. Strangely enough I have blown threw my plateau and I redpointed it on my 3rd serious attempt!! I looked at other 12a's and b's around the area and saw that they were definitely easier and figured I need to not hit anything lower than 12a.

The next day, I flashed a 11d!! Crazy weekend, but I think I'm starting to hit my stride (despite a nagging injury in the 2nd knuckle of my right pinky) and make some serious progress. I owe my ability to do those things to my recent off-season training programs.

Here's the second thing that I've noticed. I seem to make some of my best gains in strength upon putting on some extra body fat. Strange. I've noticed recently that I have some extra stomach fat but also that I'm bigger and stronger. This could be, as many bodybuilders theorize, the "bulking phase" where an increase in bodyfat can actually accelerate muscle gain. I'm typically around 4-6 percent bodyfat, but suddenly I'm somewhere near 9 percent.

Stronger!! but. . . . fatter . . . .